Years ago on our arrival in Lucchesia, I was almost immediately introduced to Necci when we were invited to dinner by friends in Benabbio our new village above Bagni di Lucca. Giovanna our hostess prepared Necci in front of us. These crêpes are made from chestnut flour from the surrounding sweet chestnut woods. To make them you need a special utensil called Testi, two discs with handles, usually made of wrought iron, and lots of skill but above all the excellent chestnut flour from the area. For centuries, sweet chestnuts have been one of the main livelihoods and an important source of food for the Serchio and Lima Valleys.
Sadly the production of the flour declined in the second half of the 20th century until it nearly completely disappeared but recently there has been a growing interest in this unique product. In the sweet chestnut woods that cover the hills of the Serchio and Lima Valleys small producers are popping up and they stick to the traditional methods of gathering, selecting, and drying the fruit over open fires in Metatos traditional drying buildings. The dry chestnuts are then stone-ground. The resulting flour, a sublime product can now be found in the local stores and it is definitely a superfood and also gluten free. It is usually available from late November .
The recipe for Necci is simple. You need chestnut flour, water and a pinch of salt. Mix the chestnut flour with water and add the salt. Stir until you have a very runny mixture without any lumps. The testi need to be greased and heated preferably over a live flame either an open fireplace or a gas ring but an electric hotplate will do. Put a couple of tablespoons of the mixture on one of the discs of the testi and quickly spread it evenly to form a circle 2 mm thicks. The other disc is then placed on top to compress the mixture and then cook it evenly on both sides by turning the testis over the flame until the necci are cooked. It will take a few minutes.
Traditionally the Necci are filled with ricotta and then rolled, but there are many modern and traditional variations. Many like it “incicciato” with a piece of sausage squished into the necci mixture between the testi, or with a piece of the local Biroldo a local cured sausage rolled in when serving it. There are also sweet versions of necci. A gourmet one is necci filled with ricotta and covered with an orange sauce and then sprinkled with zest: Yummy scrummy!
The modern version enjoyed by kids is with Nutella!
